Godin LGXT Pickup Control Modification
From VG-8.com
This page describes a modification for the Godin LGXT that provides many additional tone possibilities using the stock LGXT pickups.
The modification requires the replacement of the stock tone control with a push-pull pot. This part can be obtained from Stewart-McDonalds Guitar Shop supply. The part is listed at this link. It is part # 1216, with a price of $15 plus shipping.</p>
I've tried to make these instructions detailed enough that anyone with decent soldering skills can accomplish the job. If you don't know how to solder, print out these instructions and take them to any competent luthier. He'll know what to do.
[edit] Modification Instructions
- Picture 1 shows the control cavity on the LGXT. The part to be replaced is the shiny pot located in the bottom center of the cavity. Using a small screw driver, remove the knob from the tone-control pot. Then remove the nut from the pot shaft. Be careful not to scratch the area around the nut...hey, these are beautiful instruments. It would be a shame to mess one up. After removing the nut, remove the washer and put it aside. You will need it again in step 8.
- Picture 2 shows the pot ready to be removed from the cavity. Note the capacitor soldered between the center terminal of the pot and the case of the pot. This part will be used later in the procedure. Note the color of the two wires. If yours are different than the colors shown, take note of which color wire goes to the terminal on the pot and which is soldered to the case of the pot. Unsolder the two wires going to the pot and remove it from the cavity. Then unsolder the capacitor and remove it from the pot.
- The push-pull pot will eventually have 2 wires soldered to the case. In order to have a good solder joint, it is necessary to prepare the surfaces. The pots have a lacquer finish on them which has to be removed in the areas to be soldered. A small file is a good tool to remove the lacquer and "rough-up" the surface. Note on Pictures Picture 3 , Picture 4 and Picture 6 where the capacitor and black wire are soldered to the pot. These are the areas where the surface must be prepared. So, get out your file and start filing.
- As shown in Picture 8 , there is a little tab on the switch which needs to be broken off. The red arrow points to the tab. It can be easily broken off with a pair of needle-nose pliers. So, grab your pliers and break that tab off.
- Solder the capacitor between the center terminal and the case of the pot as shown in Picture 3 and Picture 4 .
- Note the two wires (yellow and red) soldered to the switch terminals in Picture 3 and Picture 4. Each wire is actually soldered to two terminals. A connection of each wire to only one terminal would suffice, but connecting to two terminals add reliability. Solder two wires approximately six inches long to the switch terminals.
- <Picture 5 shows the terminals on the 5-way switch. The red arrows point to two terminals with black wires connected to them. The wires from the push-pull switch will connect to these terminals, along with the black wires presently connected. Also, note the silver paint which covers the inside of the cavity. This is conductive paint which provides shielding for the electronics. It is important to make sure that none of the terminals on the push-pull pot, when installed, makes contact with this paint, as it would short the terminal to ground.
- Solder the black wire removed from the original pot to the case of the push-pull pot, as shown in Picture 6. Then, solder the red wire to the terminal on the pot.
- Install the pot into the cavity. I found that proper depth was achieved when I removed both nuts from the pot and used both washers on the pot shaft. On the front of the guitar, you can use the washer from step 1 under the nut. This would be a good time to re-install the knob removed in step 1.
- All that’s left at this point is to solder the wires to the 5-way switch. As shown in Picture 7, connect the two wires coming from the push-pull switch (my red and yellow wires) to the 5-way switch. The wires will be attached to the terminals on the 5-way switch which have the black wires connected to them. It doesn’t matter which wire you connect to each terminal. Here’s where your soldering skills will get tested. Make sure that the two black wires remain connected to the terminals, as well as the two wires coming from the push-pull switch. Actually, a “tack” joint will suffice here, since there isn’t any mechanical stress on the wires or large amounts of current flowing through them. You solder “gurus” know what I’m talking about here.
- At this point, you should turn the guitar over and test your work. My suggestion is to plug the guitar into an amp and use a small screwdriver to tap on the pickup pole pieces, while listening to the signal. You should find the following signals:
Push-Pull Switch Down - 5-Way Switch –
Position 1 is all the way down
- Bridge Humbucker, both coils
- Bridge Humbucker, inner coil only
- Bridge Humbucker, outer coil only & Neck Humbucker, inner coil only
- Neck Humbucker, inner coil only
- Neck Humbucker, both coils
Push-Pull Switch Up - 5-Way Switch –
Position 1 is all the way down
- Bridge Humbucker, both coils & Neck Humbucker, both coils (New sound)
- Bridge Humbucker, inner coil only & Neck Humbucker, both coils (New sound)
- Bridge Humbucker, outer coil only & Neck Humbucker, inner coil only (Same as with the pushpull down)
- Neck Humbucker, inner coil only & Bridge Humbucker, both coils (New sound)
- Bridge Humbucker, both coils & Neck Humbucker, both coils (New sound)
- Note that positions 1 & 5 with the push-pull up are identical – Both Humbuckers On.
If all checks out, congratulations!
You now have 3 new pickup combinations with some very useable sounds!